Our Visits to Zion National Park
One of the Jewels in the American National Park Collection.
One of the Jewels in the American National Park Collection.
This morning’s attempt at an Americano left something to be desired. This seems to be the case most mornings. Maybe I should have bought a fully automatic espresso maker. Ah well… more practice.
It is mid-February. This morning, in addition to lousy coffee, I am feeling a bit regretful. In past years I would be preparing for a trip to Southern Utah. To the Outsiders Photography Conference in Kanab Utah to be precise.
This would have been my fourth trip to Kanab, but I decided to forego the red rock cliffs, stunning canyons and amazing natural bridges for the Canadian Rocky Mountains, and the Light Chasers Nature Photography Conference in May. This one will take place in the town of Pincher Creek, Alberta.
Anyway, I am feeling a bit regretful as the Outsiders Conferences are fun and informative. They have also provided an excuse to drive a few thousand miles to see some fantastic sites like Zion National Park. Each year I have gone to Kanab, I have passed through Zion and each year have found new locations to amaze these old eyes.
The first time I visited Zion was with my wife, June. It was later in the year and we were travelling from Denver to Las Vegas. We chose to follow Utah 9 from east to west through the park as I had recently heard of the fantastic Zion-Mount Carmel tunnel. This tunnel is a bit longer than a mile and delivers you (when driving west) into the canyon below The Great Arch.
On leaving the tunnel, on the west end, you will proceed around a number of hairpin turns. The Great Arch reveals itself at the head of the canyon. The tunnel has brought you through this mountain.
On the eastern end, you can hike around a bit and enjoy some cactus and sage brush along the trail to one of many waterfalls on Pine Creek (left photo).
The photo on the right shows one of the view ports engineers cut to allow pedestrians, along with horse and wagon riders to enjoy the stupendous views of the canyon. The ports also allow fresh air and light into the tunnel as well — a bonus. Today only automobiles and small campers may use the tunnel.
Wikipedia has a very good article about the Zion — Mount Carmel Highway and Tunnel, so I won’t repeat it here. Suffice to say the tunnel is worth a visit.
Wildlife
On our first visit to the park, in September of 2009, we made the acquaintance of this handsome Whiptail Lizard. It was sunning itself on a sand bank we were hiking over and was agreeable to pose for us while I took its portrait.
At the right time of year, you may also run into some Big Horn Sheep along Pine Creek. There are also herds of deer in Zion Canyon along the Virgin River.
Virgin River
On that first trip in 2009, we boarded a shuttle bus at the park visitor center that took us up to the end of the Zion Canyon Scenic Drive. The drive follows the Virgin River north past the lodge. In high season, the buses are the only way, short of walking, to get to the end of the canyon.
Zion Canyon is another feature of the park that you, and everyone else, must visit. At the end of the road, there is an easy, paved, path that took us to the Narrows. This is where the canyon walls close in and become a large slot that the river fills from side to side. If you wish to hike deeper into the canyon, you must walk in the river, something we weren’t equipped to do on any of our visits.
The two photos here contrast September of 2009, with March of 2020. In ’09, there were a lot of people picking their way up and down the river. I managed to capture a quiet moment and was able to crop out the few people who were in the frame.
March of 2020 was different in a couple of ways. One, it was colder. The river was bringing down silt from the winter runoff, and two; the shuttle busses had been parked the day before for the duration of the Pandemic Crisis. If there were more than 100 people in the canyon on this day, I would be surprised.
An Old Juniper
On my 2020 trip, Liddy and I travelled the tunnel west to east. We stopped at a roadside pullout to hike up over a ridge. I wanted to capture a shot of the tunnel exit if I could. I liked this composition of a young juniper cradling an older, dead one, hanging on the cliff side above the canyon. I did get my shot of the road and tunnel, but it isn’t a feature in the frame.
While we were hiking the slope, Liddy and I met a gentleman who was also a photographer. We learned that he was a professional photographer whose career had just been up ended due to the pandemic. All his photo workshops for the rest of the year had just been cancelled. He was at loose ends trying to come to grips with the loss of income — a bit devastating.
Top of the Arch Hike
Last year, 2022, Liddy and I returned to Kanab. Zion was again on our itinerary, but we were planning on a hike to the Canyon Overlook above The Great Arch.
In this photo of The Great Arch, I have enlarged a section to point out the people who hiked in from the east end to take advantage of the awesome view.
It is an easy hike along a good trail. There were lots of annoying kids on the trail. Not because they were unruly, but because they showed up my age 😊.
There were bits of snow in some of the shady spots, but the trail was dry.
You can see here that we had to duck under overhangs and cross over some catwalks.
On a side note, in the future I will endeavor to put people into shots like this. It would make it way better for the story. My excuse is that I am new to this genre of travel writing. I am usually looking for grand vistas, not street photography on a trail 🤨
The reward for this short adventure is… well it is breathtaking. Looking west, down the canyon you can see the highway snaking up the south side of the canyon wall to the west tunnel entrance. In the distance is the Zion Canyon with the Virgin River at its bottom.
Liddy and I truly enjoyed our visit.
Here is a link to the article about the Canyon Overlook Trail on the All-Trails website.
National Parks and Pets
Just a short aside, I feel the need to remind you that Pets are not permitted away from the paved roads or campsites in most National Parks. Liddy is my service animal. The designation of service animal means that she is not considered a Pet.
If you plan to visit a National Park with your pet, please consult the park policies as there are very few that don’t have this restriction.
About Rover Dave
Dave Scott is a travel and nature photographer who loves to explore. Or is that an explorer who loves to do travel and nature photography.
I squandered my youth providing for my family. Now, I have recused myself from the rat race and invest my time in finding those places that inspire me. The Pacific Northwest provides many opportunities that are close to home.
Follow my journeys. I hope to engage you and to inspire you to get out and begin your own journey.
The world is a beautiful place. Share the beauty. Leave only footsteps.